Nature’s Pic Images Blog

Ilulissat - now that's a spectacular place in Disko Bay. Jacobshaven Glacier has the highest output of water (ice) in the northern hemisphere. It's calving more ice in one day than New York uses in water in one year apparently. The huge bergs take 2 years to travel down the fiord and out past the town. It is truly impressive, and little wonder why this is the heart of Greenland tourism, and also a UNESCO World Heritage site. It produces very tall bergs as they roll around in the fiord, and these litter Disko Bay and the surrounding Davis Strait. We had 2 days there, seeing a fantastic sunset on departure, humpback whales amongst the bergs and generally just staring in awe from the various hiking tracks at the scale of things.

Next was the Davis Strait passage across to Baffin Island in the Canadian Arctic. We spotted a hundred or so Pilot whales, but within sight of our first landfall, a tiny lonely piece of ice floated past with 2 polar bears eating a seal, 20NM from land. Welcome to Canada! We called at Iqaluit, the capital of Nunavut. Had a look in the Government's Legislative Chamber which was festooned with indigenous icons, art, narwhal tusks and meaning. I enjoyed seeing this, and the strong connection still with nature, the environment and the strengthening culture.

Then across to Lower Savage Islands to drive zodiacs amongst them looking for Polar bears. The first bear literally popped up in rocks about 30 metres from the Zodiac I was driving. Fantastic! Sadly, in Canada, (unlike Svalbard) Polar bears are hunted, have a great fear of humans, and generally high tail it quickly. But, we saw another 11 polar bears before heading to Resolution Island and spotting another two. 13 polar bears in one day and the Aurora borealis (Northern Lights) playing overhead to end with - what a day!!

Then a visit to Lady Franklin and Monumental Islands (both names connected to the famous missing Franklin Expedition in the North West Passage). Had another few polar bear sightings before the largest one I have ever seen decided to lie and/or prance on a rock very close to the coastline with very little concern (wee below right). This was a highlight. A visit to Akpatok Island was curtailed due to high winds, but I spotted a lonely bear walking the cliff top about 800 feet above us.

This morning we called into Hopedale, a tiny mostly Inuit town of 600 in Labrador. A beaut setting and historic place with Moravian church and Mission arriving from Germany in 1782 and being possibly the oldest building in east Canada. The local kids were out in force and we spent the morning giving them joyrides in the zodiacs around the ship. We were the first outside ship to call here this year and the smiles on their faces said it all. The kids certainly made the visit enjoyable for all of us.

Leaving Ilulissat IceFjord, Greenland, at dusk!

Very large Polar Bear on Monumental Island, Canadian Arctic Polar Bear mother and cub on Lady Franklin Island, Canadian Arctic.

Had two days in Iceland - into Akureyri and then up to see the Geothermal powerstation and volcanic activity (very like home in NZ), Lake Myvatn, have a soak in hotpools, and generally dodge the millions of midges clouding the air. Beautiful countryside that reminds me much of home. On the way back to Akureyri we called into Godafoss Waterfall (waterfall of the Gods), claiming to be Iceland's finest. Not too bad I think with the dark volcanic rock.

As you can see in the comments below, there is the small matter of 'hakarl' (pronounced 'howcutl'); the fertmented flesh from the Greenlandic Shark. This shark has no true kidneys and secrets the urea or ammonia through it's flesh and skin to act as a form of anti-freeze, which makes it very toxic when it is caught. So, the crazy Icelanders bury it for 6 months, in which time the toxic components are apparently broken down, dig it up and then eat it! Only problem is that it has about the worst smell you could imagine. So bad that apparently Gordon Ramsey, in a challenge with a journo, vomited (check Wikipedia for that one). Anyway, I'm happy to say that I tried several bits, and while having to breathe out while getting it near my face, the taste was marginally better. I can't say I was rapped with the experience, but at least I can tell my grandchildren about it one day if they'll want to listen.

Managed to get a decent coffee in Akureyri before boarding the ship again (seriously missing my Vibiemme super espresso machine and freshly roasted Supreme coffee beans I can tell you). Following day we visited a picturesque little island in the NW of Iceland, called Vigur Island. The same family have lived and farmed here for many generations - farming sheep, hunting puffins, and collecting Eider Duck down feathers to sell for expensive duvets (at over US$1800/kg for the down).

Next we set sail for Greenland - wow, can't believe it. Again we had some top whale viewing, at one point having 7 Fin whales in a raft hang around right next to the ship for an hour.

First up in Greenland we headed into a very remote fiord call Skoldungen and spent sometime ashore. The scenery was fantastic and the nearest inhabitants many miles away, and there are seldom visitors. Then down through Prince Christian Sund, around the southern tip of Greenland. Later in the season now we're starting to get some colour in the sunsets, and the panorama below was a stunner - orange pink light on the mountains and icebergs.

Next day, into Qaqortoq, a small town. Interesting experience. Brightly coloured buildings everywhere, but there's also a sad tale to tell of relocation of Inuit into housing that they are not used to, and the consequential social issues. A story similar to many cultures of course, but this one really is a stone age to the internet age in a generation or two. There are parallels with the situation in New Zealand with Maori. Met a young woman Martingwa (or Martha) who said she was driven to be the first woman leader of her country after independence. She was passionate about her people and country, and had already gone to Denmark to study political science as part of her plan. I wish her well and will watch with interest.

The fish markets here are also very interesting. Many of the fishing boats in the harbours sport harpoon guns. There is small coastal whaling here, and whale meat and blubber is an important part of the local diet; always has been and always will. In the markets it is normal to see seal meat, harbour porpoise skin and steaks and Minke whale blubber, skin and meat. Having spent many years in marine mammal conservation you might think I'd have been horrified? However, if you've been here and seen the culture and the context then it's hard to criticise, except if it's through western eyes, ideology and values. Anyway, that's a whole debate for another time. I'll sign off now and catch you up later. We're heading north into Disko Bay area at the moment. Can't believe I'm in Greenland though!

Southern Greenland, leaving Prince Christian Sound at dusk!

Anyway, we were soon heading north again and first stop was Bear Island (Bjornoya), the southern island in the Svalbard Island group. Incredible cliffs towering above with millions of nesting seabirds. We were lucky to strike it shrouded in mist and fog which was a photographers bonus. I truly stunning place and one of my favs.

Next, back up to Svalbard and into Hornsund Fiord, a very dramatic
landscape with high peaks and glaciers. Luckily we spotted a lone polar
bear swimming in the sea and we had a great view once he was out on
shore. We zodiac cruised the fiords and glaciers before the ship pulled
in close to the front of Samarinbreen Glacier which blew a few people
away!

The following day was a visit to the Walrus Colony at Poolepynten at
Prins Karls Forsland. People were very disappointed that there were
none ashore (and only a few in the water). Very strange to find this.
The following day in Longyearbyen we were told by guests from the ship
National Geographic Explorer that they had accidently caused the herd
of walruses to flee the beach earlier when a ship's zodiac boat was
used too close. A real shame for our people to miss the Walrus after
coming so far.

A morning was had in Longyearbyen (capital of Svalbard), before we
set sail for Jan Mayen Island, then Iceland. As predicted, as soon as
we hit the continental shelf we would see marine mammals. We were treated
wonderfully, seeing Minke whales, approx. 300 white beaked dolphins,
2 sperm whales, and perhaps 50 Fin whales all around the ship! Amazing
viewing on glassy calm seas! Some came almost alongside the ship.

Tuesday we managed to get a shore on Jan
Mayen Island. So what you might ask, well, only a few hundred people
make it here each year, and the conditions normally make landing an
impossibility. It's also one of the most remote islands on the planet
- planted up between Greenland and Iceland and topped with a 2277m high
active volcano. We were lucky and all got ashore to view the met service
station and facilities above the rugged black lava formed coastline
and jet black sands on a really wild windy day.

Off to Iceland for two days. Will look out for the Hakall (thanks for
the heads up Sonia! And I'll take our advice about the version with
added human derived ammonia). Then off to Greenland - can't wait for
that!

Jan Mayen Island, a serious remote piece of real estate!		Mount Beerenberg (2277masl active volcano), Jan Mayen Island, North Atlantic
Jan Mayen Island signposts		They have a sense of humour here! Jan Mayen roadsign.

We called into Bear Island (southern most island in Svalbard) and had a very moody overcast day - the perfect conditions to make this visit unforgettable, with the towering bird cliffs and caves. There's a 170metre long narrow wave eroded tunnel through the cliffs; great fun driving my zodiac through looking at nesting kittewake birds perched precariously in the rooftop. We spotted many White beaked dolphins in the surrounding sea to the south. A few whales seen, but sea fog restricted good viewing unfortunately.

Yesterday we visited Magaroya Island in northern Norway. Home to thousands of Atlantic Puffins, we had an amazing morning amongst large rafts of these characters on the oily calm sea in bright sunlight. Afternoon, the ship repositioned to near Nordkapp (North Cape) and we were put off in Zodiacs near the base to climb 300metres to the Cape. Nordkapp is the northern most part of Europe and a big deal for many (71 degrees North and we were sweating in tee-shirts - Scott Base in comparison is 73 degrees South - big difference in temperature!). Heaps of Reindeer about, and we met a 'traditional' Sami family before returning to the ship to head overnight to Tromso. Had our first sunset in 3 weeks last night - very bizarre. Heading north again to Svalbard tomorrow.

Another highlight has been the visit to a male Walrus haulout at Poolepynten.
About 25 Walruses lying around on a sandy beach. It's hard to get sick
of seeing such iconic symbols of the Arctic. Walruses have the largest
baculum (Penis bones) in the world (up to 60cm in length). One gentleman
here thought this was rather unfair until I suggested it might be rather
hard to carry on the survival of the species in such frigid waters without
one

Had dinner onboard last night with members of the Prince Albert II
Foundation Board (The Prince's environmental organisation), from Monaco.
Great to talk about marine environmental issues, and of course the All
Blacks. Surprising how there are such passionate supporters in the most
unlikely countries. Others were Consular staff from the Monaco Embassy
in New York. After dinner we ran a special zodiac cruise to find a mother
Polar Bear and cub we knew were in the area. Fantastic viewing followed
check the shot right).

We're now about to attempt navigation of the Hinlopen Strait between
Spitsbergen and Nordaustlandet Island. Current ice charts indicate we
may have 30-40 hours of pushing ice to get through enroute down to Bear
Island and then Tromso, Norway. Pack ice s where we're most likely to
spot seals and polar bears out hunting, so all eyes on deck.

Next, ashore at St Jonsfjord in the south west for a short hike near glaciers. Caught up with a couple of reindeer in the tundra. How can an animal grow so much antler in such a harsh environment! Obviously some powerful selection pressures here.
Then we shot up the west coast of the islands to make 80 degrees north - only 600 miles of frozen sea lay between us and the North Pole. While in the pack ice we got our first walrus encounter - one of the world's more interesting and amazing creatures that's for sure!
Then around into the NW Spitsbergen National Park for an amazing afternoon
zodiac crusing in front of the giant Monacobreen Glacier (see photo),
before heading south where we spotted a Minke Whale, and then the highlight
of the day - a mother Polar Bear and cub!

St Jonsfjord		Monacobreen Glacier pano
Polar bear		Polar Bear